___________________________________________
Owning Pet Rats in Canada
by Jen
Introduction
Domestic rats are wonderful pets and have been gaining popularity in Canada for years despite the negativity connected with their name. Unfortunately detailed information about their proper care has been slow to keep up and most pet stores in the country still point people towards products that are unsuitable or downright dangerous for rats and other small animals. Thankfully a few books have emerged in recent years that promote correct and current information on rat care, and the Internet is playing a large role as well in helping to educate rat owners about their pets. The Internet has been a way for rat owners to share their experiences, advice and knowledge while also providing access to some trustworthy sources of well-researched information. Despite its reputation for having a sea of conflicting information, the Internet really is a great place to find the most current information on rat care. This article is intended to touch on the important aspects of caring for pet rats with information about some special considerations when owning rats in Canada.
Rats as Pets? Why on earth….?
Pet Rats. After years of keeping these wonderful little critters my choice of pet has inevitably come up in conversation many times and the reactions vary from "Ew!" to "Oh yes my friend has rats, they're great!". The most common reaction is one of surprise. The first word out of most peoples' mouths after the shocked silence is "Why? The thought of rats as pets is a very strange concept to many people. This is predictable because most people only know of rats from the media's portrayal of wild rats living in dark dirty sewers and their connection with the Bubonic plague (it was actually fleas that carried that particular disease). So why on earth would someone want to have a rat as a pet? The truth is that domestic rats make wonderful pets and are very very different from wild rats.
Rats have been domesticated for over 200 years. Selective breeding of many many generations of Norway rats (Rattus Norvegicus) over all those years has produced the domestic rat of today which is an affectionate and gentle animal. A fair comparison is that wild rats are to domestic rats as wolves are to dogs. However, unlike dogs which vary greatly in size and shape from the wolf, the body shape of domestic rats has changed very little over time. This means the outward appearance of domestic rats is still very similar to their wild relatives, which often makes people unwilling to accept them as pets. The temperament of domestic rats is very very different from that of wild rats. The breeders and scientists of the past selected the most docile animals to produce their future generations. Domestic rats are far more gentle and relaxed. In keeping with the comparison, domestic rats are also similar to dogs in that both animals have descended from wild ancestors that lived in complex social groups. Their social nature means that rats have an enthusiastically interactive disposition (like dogs), something not found in small animals that are solitary by nature like hamsters. Rats do not merely tolerate being handled by their owners but rather enjoy interacting and spending time with humans.
Rats in Alberta
Despite the fact that domestic rats are vastly different from their wild ancestors, the province of Alberta has chosen not to differentiate between the two. Rattus norvegicus whether wild or domesticated, is illegal to own in this province. "The Agricultural Pests Act forbids, the importation, sale or captive breeding of Norway rats or any subspecies or derivation of the genus Rattus. Pet shop owners, herpetologists and other persons interested in keeping rats as pets are not allowed to do so in Alberta. Only hospitals, universities and other related institutes of education, authorized by the government are allowed to possess live rattus species of any kind." According to a CBC Radio news report on September 21, 2004, anyone found keeping rats in Alberta can be subject to a $5000 fine. Pet rats are kept legally in all other provinces and territories in Canada although in the Fall of 2004 Saskatchewan announced that it was considering implementing a similar ban on rats.
http://www1.agric.gov.ab.ca/$department/deptdocs.nsf/all/prm2579
Are rats the right pet for me?
I’ve already mentioned the enthusiastic interactive nature of pet rats and I think that is one of the main reasons they are such great pets. Rather than simply tolerating you like some other small mammals, rats enjoy spending time with people. They are intelligent, affectionate animals with lots of personality. Owners always form a strong emotional attachment with their rats because they are such endearing little creatures. Rats are clean and quiet animals and don’t need walks or vaccinations. They can be very active critters, always looking for new places to explore but they have their quiet moments too where they like to slow down for a cuddle or a backrub. Like any pet they also have their disadvantages. Rats are rodents and instinctively like to chew. You cannot teach a rat not to chew – it is their nature. You have to be careful about furniture and wires when they are out playing. Another drawback is their short lifespan. Domestic rats live on average 2 to 2.5 years – long enough for you to get extremely attached to them but short in comparison with the lifespan of other pets.
Something to consider is your present lifestyle. Are you able to commit to caring for small animals for the next 2.5 to 3 years? Are you certain that your living arrangements can accommodate rats? If you’re in an apartment you’ll want to examine the rules surrounding pets. Laws vary by province as to whether landlords are entitled to have ‘no pets’ rules but it’s always better to be open and honest about the rats to avoid any problems in the future. It is completely unfair to rats if you get them only to have to give them up halfway through their life because you decide to go on an extended trip abroad or your landlord suddenly discovers that you have rats and insists that either they go or you do.
Rats deserve to be treated with as much care and responsibility as more conventional pets like cats or dogs. This means that you need to consider the cost of veterinary care when choosing to own rats. There are some common health problems with rats that I’ll get to later in this article and it’s practical to anticipate at least a couple of visits to the vet for each of your rats. Here in Canada a check-up usually costs around $30-40 for a small animal. Medication is often needed as well. Saving a bit of money each month in a separate bank account for medical costs later on is an excellent idea. Be aware of the ongoing costs of food and bedding. Even though rats cost only a few dollars to buy that does not make them more ‘disposable’ than a more expensive animal. Rats are small furry bundles of life that feel affection, fear, and pain like dogs and cats. Rats deserve medical attention if they become ill just like any other domestic animal. If you aren’t willing or can’t afford to pay for vet bills and possible medical emergencies for your rats then you should not get them as pets.
Domestic Rat Facts
Scientific name: Rattus norvegicus
Average lifespan of pet rats: 2 to
2.5 years.
Puberty (sexual maturity) = 5 weeks.
Physical maturity = 8 months.
For Rats to be Rats…. The Social Nature of Rats
Rats are very social animals. In order to be healthy happy animals physically, mentally and socially they need to be kept in groups of two or more. This is especially important for younger rats to ensure they develop into confident and friendly animals. A rat that lives with at least one other rat will be more confident, more enthusiastic to come out to spend time with you and explore, and will therefore bond more closely with you. Rats kept alone are often (but not always) nervous and timid, sometimes developing behavioural problems. If you want to make sure you have the best chance of having a friendly confident rat as a pet, make sure he or she has at least one buddy of the same sex.
Of course sometimes things are not so straight-forward. Sometimes an owner already has an adult rat living alone. Or, sometimes an owner will find themselves in a situation where an adult rat is alone after the death of a cagemate. Is the best thing to do to follow the general advice that rats should always be kept in groups and introduce a couple of young, active little babies to the older rat? This will depend on the age and temperament of the rat in question. The benefits of social interaction must be weighed against the fact that active babies and the introduction process itself will put stress on an older rat. An older rat that has had the benefit of growing up with another rat and all the advantages that go along with that (increased confidence, etc.) will already be a well-adjusted pet. Therefore the rat will likely be okay to live alone in his/her old age after his companion dies because he has already had a chance to develop confidence and be comfortable with where he lives. I had a 2.5 year old rat whose cagemate died and I made sure I watched closely for signs of depression but he never showed any and lived out the rest of his life as a happy contented rat. If he had been younger, I might have gotten a new cagemate or two for him but due to his advanced age I chose not to.
My very first rat was bought as a baby and never had any cagemates. This was due to a combination of my parents only allowing me to have one rat the fact that I hadn’t yet learned how extremely social rats were. Out of the 6 rats that I have had, my first rat was by far the most timid and shy and I attribute that to the fact that he was the only one that grew up and lived alone. The other 5 rats I've had have all had at least one cagemate, and they were and are very outgoing friendly pets.
Like all domestic animals, pet rats must be socialized when young to make sure they are comfortable with humans. A well socialized rat will be curious when they meet you, eager to explore and see new things. An unsocialized rat will cower in terror and be fearful of being picked up. One of the most important responsibilities of someone raising baby rats is to ensure they are well socialized so that the baby rats will be confident and comfortable in their lives as pets and so that the new owners will be happy as well.
Males or Females?
There really isn't a great deal of difference between the
sexes. Male animals often have a reputation for being more aggressive than
females, but this is absolutely not true for rats. Male rats are
just as friendly, affectionate, patient and gentle as female rats. Male
rats will get along with each other just as well as females get along. They
do not need to be neutered in order to get along. When they
are older, male rats are often content to sit on your lap for a back scratch
whereas females are constantly on the go and don't slow down as much as they get
older. Males
are larger than females and females are more active than males.
Where to Find Pet Rats
1) Private sales by breeders or people with accidental litters
2) Pet stores
3) Shelters/Humane Societies
Again, notice the plural of rats – if at all possible rats should be purchased/adopted in pairs or groups of the same sex.
The best place to start your search is your local humane society or animal shelter. Most people don’t realize how many small animals end up at shelters. A quick check of the “Other Animals for Adoption” webpages of the Toronto Humane Society shows just how many rats, mice, hamsters, guinea pigs, rabbits and others are waiting for homes. Check out the Rat Rescue section of the PRC website for a list of links and information about rat rescue forums and operations in Canada and abroad.
Private sales (breeders) and pet stores
are another option. One of the most important things to keep in mind if you go
this route is to ensure the person/place you are getting rats from is housing
the rats with proper food and bedding in a clean uncrowded environment where the
babies are socialized to trust humans and the males and females are kept
separate. If you get your rats from
such a place you will have the best chance of having healthy, well-adjusted pet
rats. Unfortunately, some places do
not take the time to socialize rats or keep them in a healthy environment.
Although a first reaction is usually to ‘rescue’ rats from such a
situation, remember that these rats will be at a higher risk for health problems
and will require more time and patience during the bonding process. Also,
always keep in mind that other rats will replace the ones you buy so consider
the welfare of future rats. You want to buy rats from responsible people or places so that 1) your
rats are healthy and happy, and 2) the rats that replace the ones you buy will
also be happy and healthy.
Basic Care
A Home for Your Rats
Small animal cages are usually one of
two types: wire cages with a tray
at the bottom or an aquarium. Aquariums
alone are not really a good choice for a rat cage.
The main problem with them is poor ventilation.
Without good air circulation, odours (ammonia) from urine concentrate
within the glass walls and this irritates the rat’s respiratory system,
isn’t healthy and often makes the cage (and the rats) stink.
A rat cage should never stink. Pet
rats are prone to respiratory problems so keeping a clean, odour-free
environment is top priority. Proper air circulation and a good cleaning routine
should mean that your rats never have anything other than a slight ‘ratty’
odour to their home. Aquariums are
a poor choice for rat habitat also because they don’t have any levels. Aquariums just aren't much fun. Rats love climbing up and down ramps to multiple
levels and if given a choice they will usually nap in the upper levels of their
cage rather than the bottom. This
isn’t to say that an aquarium can’t be used as a rat habitat, but only a
large aquarium that has been modified to include a variety of toys and some sort
of modification to provide levels would be a suitable rat home.
Also keep in mind that an aquarium of adequate size will be cumbersome
and difficult to carry around for cleaning.
There is a product called an “aquarium topper” that is a wire cage
attachment that fits on top of the aquarium.
Better ventilation is provided this way so aquarium toppers are something
to consider if you are set on using an aquarium for your rat’s home.
A wire cage has the advantage of much
better air circulation and the opportunity for multiple levels.
A critical consideration for wire cages is whether the wire is coated or
not. Coated wire is
definitely preferable because it is healthier for your rats and will save you
time and money. Bare, uncoated wire
(also called “galvanized” wire) is not the very good because it will absorb
urine and odours making it much more difficult to keep clean.
Coated wire is protected and therefore doesn’t absorb odour/urine and
is easier to keep clean, which means your rats will be healthier, you’ll spend
less time scrubbing the cage, and your cage will last longer.
A cage made with uncoated wire is cheaper but keep in mind that the extra
effort to keep it clean combined with the fact that it won’t last as long
actually makes it a more expensive option (and a headache to boot). If you already have a cage made of bare wire, or if
it’s your only option then be sure to cover the wire levels with some sort of
protective solid material. Plastic
carpet protector or plastic placemats are two materials that some rat owners
with galvanized cages use to cover the levels and prevent urine from coming in
contact with the bare wire. Foot
problems can occur if rats are walking on dirty surfaces.
This is a major concern if the wire in your cage is bare and uncoated but
less of a concern with coated wire. If
any surface in the cage is solid and allows pee to pool on the surface you must
wipe this daily to prevent odour and to keep rat feet healthy.
Bar spacing is also an important factor with wire cages. Appropriate spacing between the bars depends on the age and size of your rats, but it will probably make the most sense for you to save up and buy a large cage with bar spacing suitable for your rats when they are both babies and adults. Cages on the market for ferrets are spacious with many levels but the bar spacing of these cages makes them suitable only for adult male rats. Baby rats and small female rats can squeeze through the gaps between the bars on these cages which can lead to injury or escape. The best bar spacing for a rat cage is ½” between bars. The walls often consist of ½” by 1” rectangles. Wire floors should always consist of squares that are no larger than ½” by ½”. It’s important that the wire floors of the cage’s levels be made of small squares rather than rectangles to prevent a rat’s foot from getting caught in a long narrow gap. This is especially a concern for babies and young rats. If the wire on top of the cage has gaps that are rectangular rather than squares don’t let babies or young rats walk on the top of the cage while they are out playing.
How large does a rat cage need to be? There are some guidelines about how much space you should allow per rat but beyond that the best rule of thumb is to buy the biggest cage you can afford. The larger your cage, the less dirty it will get between cleanings and you won’t have to worry about overcrowding. Two cubic feet per rat is a good guideline for minimum amount of space and there is a “Rat Cage Calculator” that can recommend how many rats can live in a cage of certain dimensions.
http://www.kristinewickstrom.homestead.com/files/PanelApplet.html
For example, a cage measuring 1.5x1.5x2.0 feet is appropriate for 2 adult rats. But please consider the benefits of buying a cage that offers much more space than the guideline. I presently have 3 rats in a cage that, according to the cage calculator, can fit 5.6 rats and by having all that extra space the cage stays quite clean and the rats have tons of space. If rats are housed in a cage that is too small, it will get dirty really quickly and the rats will be overcrowded which can lead to health and behaviour problems.
Which brings us to the issue of cleaning the cage. You’ll want to keep in mind that your cage will frequently be moved from it’s usual location to wherever you will be cleaning it (usually the bathroom or outside). Most doorways in houses are between 2.5 and 3 feet wide so take this into consideration when buying your cage. Cleaning the cage outside with a hose is the easiest most convenient option but here in Canada I think I can safely say that few, if any of us, will be able to use this method all the time so most likely you’ll be cleaning your cage in the bathtub or shower at least part of the year. Wire cages can scratch bathtubs so a good strategy is to put the emptied plastic cage tray in the tub and then place the wire part of the cage on the tray, thereby avoiding the metal wire coming in contact with the tub. Clean the wire section and then remove it and clean the tray last. I’m not a fan of strong chemical cleaners and I use just regular soap to clean my cage. However, periodic disinfecting of the cage is a good idea. Do not use any kind of scented cleaners because the scents can irritate the respiratory system of rats. Whatever you use, be sure to rinse really well. The best way to keep your rats’ cage clean and odour-free between cleanings is to “change the sheets” every day. By this I mean replace any sort of cloth bedding daily. This is a great way to reduce odours and maintain respiratory health. In general, the cage should be cleaned and the bedding in the bottom tray replaced about once a week but this will vary a bit depending on the number of rats you have and the size of your cage. Don’t wait until the cage smells to clean it. Clean the cage before it gets to that point.
The rats’ cage should be in a draft-free location that does not get direct sunlight. Don’t keep them in a secluded corner – rats love to interact with people and enjoy being in a location where they are exposed to daily activities of their human(s). If you have other larger pets like cats and dogs that will be in the same area as the rat cage make doubly sure that the cage is secure and escape-proof.
Where do you find a good cage? Options for getting cages are 1) stores 2) building your own. Here in Canada retail pet stores usually don’t cater to rats but rather to small animals that are tiny (hamsters) or large (ferrets). For the most part, hamster cages are not suitable for rats because they are too small. Habitrail-type cages should never ever be used as rat cages. Ferret cages are really only suitable for adult rats due to the large spacing between the bars and this is a disadvantage since most people get rats while they are quite young. If you can manage to find a cage in a store that is made of coated wire with bar spacing of ½”x1” then count yourself lucky. Sometimes birdcages can be converted to rat cages by the addition of multiple levels. In southern Ontario there are some pet stores that carry “Sleepy Hollow” cages that are a good size and have appropriate bar spacing. If you find the perfect cage but realize that the wire isn’t coated, consider contacting a local metal working company to discuss the possibility of powder-coating the wire. There are several online companies that make cages for small animals. Martins Cages in particular makes wonderful cages for rats: http://www.martinscages.com/products/cages/rat/ These cages come in both bare wire and powder-coated wire but again I highly recommend that you get a cage with coated wire. Shipping to Canada is roughly cdn$50 extra. It is definitely worth saving up for one of these cages (I have nothing but praise for a powder-coated R-695 that I bought). Tip: If you do buy a Martin’s cage, replace the metal “O” rings that hold the cage pieces together with plastic cable ties. For some reason the O rings tend to rust so replacing them with plastic ties helps keep the cage in good shape.
Some rat owners have made their own cages. Sometimes this turns into a bit of a trial and error project with multiple redesigning of the cage, but the advantage to building your own is that you can make it the exact dimensions with as many stories as you like. Keep in mind the caution about bare wire and urine pooling on solid surfaces, and that rats are very good at chewing. Also keep in mind how difficult it might be to move the cage around for cleaning.
Bedding
Bedding refers to the material placed in the bottom of your rats’ cage that is intended to absorb urine and odours so that the cage remains as clean as possible between cleanings. Since your rats will be walking on this material and breathing the air directly above it, you want to be very sure that it is non-toxic and not dusty.
For years cedar and pine shavings (softwood shavings) have been touted as the most popular choice for bedding because of their pleasant scent. It turns out that the very chemicals that give cedar and pine their nice smell are chemicals that are toxic to the system of rats and other animals. These smelly chemicals are called “phenols” and are known to irritate the skin and respiratory tract of rats. As I’ve said earlier, rats are prone to respiratory problems, so using softwood chips as bedding is definitely NOT something you want to do. Cedar is by far the worst. Pine is generally considered the lesser of the two evils but it too has these toxic phenols and should be avoided. There is some debate over whether “kiln-dried” pine has had the phenols removed, but the best advice is still to avoid using softwood shavings as a bedding entirely.
So what are safe bedding materials? Wood chips from hardwood trees like aspen and maple are safe. Some brands can be very dusty though so you should avoid them. Paper-based bedding is an excellent choice and the favourites there are CareFresh or Yesterday’s News cat litter. Personally, I use Yesterday’s News and have found it to be the best option for odour control and for absorbing urine. It is in a pellet form but the pellets are smooth around the outside so they aren’t hard on little feet. Rats quite enjoy pushing them around. The Yesterday’s News pellets are quite heavy compared to other bedding so much less (if any) ends up being kicked out of the cage. Corncob bedding is a safe material but sometimes has an unpleasant smell and is prone to mould, and I’ve heard of a few incidences of rats choking on it. Shredded newspaper is okay as long as the ink is soy-based (check with the company – most are soy based) but it is not good at all for odour control so should only be used if you intend to change the bedding daily.
Rats should always have a couple of areas where they can go to be on soft materials like cotton rags or pieces of fleece. Most often these are placed under or in a favourite house. These “sheets” should be changed daily since rats like to sleep in these areas so you want them to be as clean as possible. Don’t use towel material with little loops because rats’ nails can get caught in the loops which can lead to torn nails and quite a bit of bleeding.
Bedding should be changed before the
cage becomes stinky. This is usually about once a week but will depend on the
number of rats, te size of the cage, and the type of bedding.
Rats can be litter trained although I’ve never done it myself. The litter in the box should be a different material than the bedding. Crushed walnut is one example. Never use clumping litter anywhere in a cage because it is dusty and can be dangerous if ingested. More info on litter training here.
Food & water
A water bottle is definitely better than a bowl because in the bottle the water
will stay clean. Use de-chlorinated
water.
A good rat food has a well-balanced base that makes up a large proportion of the diet. By base I mean the main thing that the rats are eating. The best bases I know of are lab-blocks and Nutro Lite dog food.
If you drop by most pet stores there are usually two options for rat food – seed mixes and lab blocks. Seed mixes are not a good option for the majority of your rats’ diet. Most of them contain a lot of dried corn which isn’t good for rats and small animals because it can be contaminated by fungus which produces toxic byproducts (mycotoxins). Secondly, if your rats are fed a seed mix they will always pick out the highly fatty seeds and leave the less desirable ones. This leads to an unbalanced, deficient diet high in fat. If a child was given a dinner that always consisted of gumdrops, jellybeans and broccoli we all know what the outcome would be. As a supplement given every once in a while seed mixes are fine to give to your rats (but pick out the corn first), but they are not a good choice for the main diet of your rats.
Lab blocks look like large pieces of dog food and have been formulated with rodents in mind so that they are well balanced nutritionally. Protein should be 16% or lower (this is true for all rat food). If a food is too high in protein it can cause skin and other health problems. Lab blocks (and Nutro Lite dog food) are a good base for a rat food and can be supplemented with seeds and fresh veggies. I usually give my rats small portions of the vegetables, rice or potatoes I have for dinner. As their main diet, my rats get a mix of lab blocks and Nutro Lite dog food.
There are a few food items that should never be given to rats. Other items should be fed with caution. A list of these are here: Forbidden Foods
Accessories
Rats should always have a small enclosed space that they can go into if they want some privacy. This is usually a house or box. It is best if it is made of a material that is durable (i.e. chew-proof) and easy to clean.
Hammocks are something that should be in all rat cages. They are very easy to make and can be made out of scraps of old material or out of fleece. (Again don’t use towel material with little loops – it can cause torn toenails)
Toys – toilet paper rolls, Kleenex boxes (remove the plastic first)
Water bottle brush for cleaning the water bottle (weekly)
An additional water bottle as a back-up for when you go away on weekends
A food bowl so that food is kept separate from bedding
Rat carry container (one example of a travel container for rats can be seen here)
Common Health Problems in Pet Rats
Rats are normally quite sturdy little creatures but there are a few health problems that are common in pet rats. The top four are:
1) Respiratory problems
2) Tumours
3) Abscesses
4) Mites
You should do a little investigating now to find a good rat-knowledgeable vet so that when the day comes that you need a vet you will be as prepared as possible. Many vets are used to seeing only traditional pets (cats and dogs) and are unaware of special considerations that need to be taken into account when treating rats. A good example is the common practice of ‘fasting’ (denying animals food) prior to surgery. This is regularly done with cats and dogs to reduce the risk of vomiting. Rats are different from cats and dogs because they are unable to vomit. Therefore there is no reason to have them fast before surgery, and fasting is actually a bad thing to do for rats because they require as much energy as possible to maintain body heat during surgery. A few other considerations with rats and vets are listed on PRC’s Vet Page. When you talk to vets during your search, ask how often they treat rats, if they are familiar with the types and doses of mediction for rats, and if they are comfortable treating rats. A great way to enhance your search is to touch base with other rat owners in your area to find out which vet they go to. PRC has a list of rat-friendly vets that have been submitted over the years by people across Canada. If you find a vet that is excellent with rats be sure to let PRC know so that other owners can benefit.
One of the most common and frustrating health problem is #1 – Respiratory problems. These are almost always difficult to treat. Most pet rats have a bacteria called Mycoplasma pulmonis in their lungs. This is commonly referred to as “Myco” and is highly contagious. It has spread itself throughout the pet rat population so that you can make the assumption that your rats have it. Some rats are more adversely affected by myco than others. This is probably due to many factors including the fact that there are different strains of myco. Some rats are fine whereas others develop respiratory infections early in life and the infections coupled with myco usually means chronic lung problems for the individual rat. I had two rats (Rimsky and Korsakoff) who were brothers. Rimsky struggled with respiratory problems most of his life while his brother never had any lung problems. Both boys lived together for their whole lives, were never seperated and were always in the same environment. My next group of rats, all brothers, lived together and were never seperated. One of them developed lung problems early in his life and had chronic infections but the other two were (and continue to be) fine. Respiratory problems CAN be treated with antibiotics - the sooner the better.
Related Articles on Respiratory problems:
Rat Respiratory Disease: What Causes it, and What you Can Do About it - by R.S. Hines DVM, PhD
http://www.ratfanclub.org/resp.html
http://www.rmca.org/Articles/respir.htm
#2 Tumours - the majority are mammary and female rats get tumours more
often than males
http://www.ratfanclub.org/tumors.html
http://www.rmca.org/Articles/tumors.htm
http://ratguide.com/health/neoplasia/mammary_tumor.php
#3 Abscesses – See PRC’s article on this health problem here:
http://www.petratscanada.com/abscess.htm
#4 Mites – See PRC’s article on this health problem here:
http://www.petratscanada.com/scabs.htm
Introducing Rats
There are numerous detailed articles about how to go about introducing rats to one another so instead of re-writing information from them here I will instead provide a couple excellent links on the introduction process. Basically though, you should never ever just introduce to strange rats to one another by immediately putting them together. One concern is disease – there are several serious contagious organisms that can pass from rat to rat so a new rat must always be quarantined from other rats for several weeks. Another reason is that for the introduction process to be successful it must be done gradually over the course of days or weeks. If care isn’t taken to make sure there is a gradual introduction the rats may injure one another.
http://ratguide.com/care/behavior/introducing_rats.php
http://www.ratfanclub.org/newrat.html
Traveling with Rats
I’ve written a separate article on this topic that can be seen here: http://www.petratscanada.com/travel/travel.htm
Rat Clubs
There are several Canadian rat clubs that are active in promoting pet rats and connecting rat owners. The Ontario chapter of the RMCA is located in Ottawa and there is also a Quebec Chapter. Recently a new club called the Domestic Rat Enthusiast Association of Manitoba and Saskatchewan (D.R.E.A.M.S.) has started up for rat owners on the prairies.
Larger International Rat Clubs include the Rat Fan Club and the Rat and Mouse Club of America.
Conclusion
Pet rats are wonderful animals. They are affectionate, intelligent and entertaining pets. I hope this article has provided helpful information on basic rat care and has given some insight to those of you who are at the stage where you are considering rats as pets. If you would like to do some more research on rats and rat care, then there are a couple of excellent books that I recommend: Recommended Reading